Examination of Mevlevi Rituals and Garments Attributed To Sultan Veled From a Fashion Art Perspective

Abstract

The aim of this study is to examine the clothing worn by Mevlevis during the ritual, the accessories, and the garments attributed to Sultan Veled, the son of Mevlana, the founder of the Mevlevi tradition, from the perspective of fashion arts. These garments, which are heritage from the Seljuk period, have not been sufficiently researched and examined in terms of clothing arts. It is observed from the literature review that there are not many publications providing information about these garments. Additionally, no research has been found concerning pattern preparation and garment application techniques related to the Mevlevi garments and those attributed to Sultan Veled from the perspective of clothing arts. These garments, which possess different characteristics in terms of fabric, model, cutting, materials used, sewing techniques, and decoration, should be documented with technical information, photographs, and drawings. In this direction, a literature review and interviews with key informants have been conducted. The model, cutting, sewing, fabric, lining, and decoration features of the garments and accessories worn by the Mevlevis during their ritual and the two garments attributed to Sultan Veled, which are part of the Mevlana Museum collection, have been examined. Patterns have been extracted from the examined garments. To overcome storage difficulties, the patterns were reduced in scale while remaining faithful to the originals. Each garment was photographed, and the body, collar, sleeves, and closure characteristics were examined based on the pattern drawings. The garments were documented with photographs, examining their fabric, lining, color, decoration, auxiliary materials, and sewing features. The tennure, worn by Mevlevis during the ritual, is white. The garment extends just below the ankle, has no lining, and is characterized by simplicity in its model and cut. A black belt called Elif-i Nemed is tied around the waist of the tennure, and a Deste-Gül is worn over it. The last layer worn over the sema tennure is the Hırka (robe). The Deste-Gül attributed to Sultan Veled is cream-colored, made of cotton fabric, lined, and decorated with various verses. The robe is made of dark pink patterned silk fabric, with a pistachio green silk lining. It has a loose fit with princess seams and kimono sleeves extending from the princess seams. The collar of the garment is a "chemise collar." It is suggested that this fashion art, which emerged with Mevlana's philosophy, should be further researched by researchers in this field and fashion designers, leading to new applications.